Mexico 2003: The Mayan Yucatan
Nov. 11 / Nov. 20, 2003
Michael J. Ferguson
Montréal
Les Publications
INRS-Télécommunications,
Montréal
Journal Index
Contents
1 Montreal to Cancun, Tues/Wed. Nov. 11/12
2 Cancun to Puerto Aventuras, Thurs. Nov. 13
3 Puerto Aventuras to Tulum, Fri. Nov. 14
4 Tulum Beach to Chemax, Sat. Nov. 15
5 Chemax Camp to Chemax Camp, Sun. Nov. 16
6 Chemax Camp to Cancun(almost), Mon. Nov. 17
7 Cancun, Tues. Nov. 18
8 Cancun to Montreal, Wed./Thurs Nov. 19/20
9 Some Comments
10 Map
11 Google Earth Map of Trip
While a graduate student at Stanford in 1964, I was able to extend a
trip, where we had to make our yearly progress report our research
results to the US Army and Air Force, from Stanford to the east coast to
include the Bahamas, and Yucatan. We stopped in Merida, and took day
trips Chichén Itzá and Uxmal. Although I had hoped to see them again on
this one week ride, heat, humidity, and short days, and a total stay of
only one week conspired to keep me away. I flew from New York to
Cancun, which did not exist in 1964, rode south to Tulum, back
up to Valladolid, and back to Cancun. I had hoped to see several
lesser known Mayan ruin sites, but missing a turn and an apparently
non-existent road reduced me to two.
1 Montreal to Cancun, Tues/Wed. Nov. 11/12
The overnight bus ride from Montreal to New York was appropriately
uneventful, and I arrived at the NY Port Authority at 6:00am, in time to
catch the 6:20am bus to JFK. By 7:30am, I had checked in all my
bags. Unlike the last time, when I went to Japan, there was absolutely
no wait. I shared the bus to JFK with Terry, an insurance agent who had
recycled himself to be first, an AA Flight Attendant, and now for a two
year appointment as a ground manager in charge of cabin services. Even
he was surprised at how quiet it was.
The rest of the trip was uneventful, and we landed 10min early, but had
to wait those 10min for our gate to clear. My bags arrived all intact,
and much to my delight the bike was unharmed.
I put everything together outside the terminal to an appreciative audience
of about 15 security guards. Just as I was finishing, one of them said
"Your are unusual. No one comes here this way!"
It was a hot, 32°C, sunny ride the 12km into Cancun
Centro. However, sunset is at 5:00pm, and it was just after that I
finally found some camping gas for my stove. I do like to have my early
morning coffee. There was a brief evening shower. With some effort, and
several questions, I found the Albergue
CREA, that Lonely Planet said
had camping, at the north end of the Zona Hotelera.
2 Cancun to Puerto Aventuras, Thurs. Nov. 13
Sunrise was just before 6:00am, and I was ready to go by about
7:00am. Before I left, the beach in front of my tent already was overrun
by joggers.
Lonely Planet said the camping was nice but that the rooms at the CREA
were grotty. They were not kidding.
I rode south through the Zona Hotelera, that is the heart of very upscale
tourist area of Cancun. Some places were just small tourist traps,
but the most were huge, gated estates. Although all beaches in Mexico
are public, there was no way you get to the ones that were here.
On the way down, I discovered that, contrary to the information in
Lonely Planet, my ordinary North American cell phone could connect to the
local network, and my provider allowed me to roam here. I won't use it
again except for an emergency.
The ride south of the airport, where the road from the Zona
Hotelera comes out, was very straight, very flat,
occasionally rainy,
very hot, with a wonderful strong tailwind. At 3:30pm, with sunset about
an hour and a half later, I could not push my bike forward with any real
consistency. It was also clear I was not going to make my preferred
destination of Xel-Ha. At about 4:00pm, I found a great, very
isolated, place to camp, behind a power substation. I put up my tent, and
collapsed inside to sleep off my heat exhaustion. At 8:00pm, I awoke,
went outside to wash, made supper, and went to bed.
It was an exhausting day, but a good one. Except for the heat, it was
the easiest riding I have had for a long time. The highway was busy but
he shoulder was wide, and it was with the prevailing winds.
3 Puerto Aventuras to Tulum, Fri. Nov. 14
It rained, but stopped before morning so I was able to pack a wet tent
in the dry. My first stop was the Xel-Ha National Park?, but I
declined to go inside. It had all the looks of being a Disneyland, and
cost $29us. On top of that, the Xel-Ha Zona Arqueologica was not
even there, but about 200m down the road.
As I was buying my entrance fee, $29mex, about $2:50us, three curious
kittens discovered my bike.
The ruins were small, and surrounded by jungle.
The cenote was off limits for swimming.
The major ruins for the day were at Tulum
This is very large compared to Xel-ha, but tiny compared to
Chichén Itzá. Its real beauty is its setting on the Caribbean.
The nice folks at the Lonely Planet recommended Weary Traveler in
Tulum, told me that there were campgrounds on the beach, about 6km
away and even gave me a map. I stopped at Camping Santa Fe, which
is really in business selling cabanas, and set up just behind one of
them, in a very fine sand. The beach was large, fine white sand, and
sufficient wave action to preclude any snorkeling. I think I much
prefer grassy plots on which to camp - much less messy.
It appears that quiet hour does not exist at this beach
resort. Someone turned on their ghetto blaster at 10:00pm, and I
was entertained, continuously, with salsa rock music until 5:00am. I
wonder that the batteries lasted so long.
4 Tulum Beach to Chemax, Sat. Nov. 15
It poured rain most of the night, with only a brief, but welcome,
respite while I was taking down the tent. On the way back to Tulum,
I was completely soaked, but it was warm. Much to my surprise, the
San Francisco de Asis supermarket was open when I arrived just
before 8:00am. I reprovisioned for supper and breakfast, including some
non-alcoholic Sangria, the only Sangria they sold.
I also found that the Internet access at the
Weary Traveler was open. I sent my first journal report, but had
some very sad news from home. My favorite cat, Kali, that I had rescued
from Toronto when Peggy had to give it up, had just died. The trauma
caused in our family is immense. It also drained my spirit and I was
pedaling with very little enthusiasm all day.
My major goal of the day was the Mayan city of Cobá, which was, at
one time, one of the largest cities in the Mayan domain. After riding
about 50km, I saw a sign that said 3km to Cobá. I saw nothing on
both sides of the 3km highway signpost, so I continued. My map indicated
that the road should turn north at the ruins, but it was continuing
north-west. After, another 10km, a car with a British couple stopped and
asked me if this was the way to Cobá. I said that I thought it was,
but I had not seen any signs. They continued, and then came back,
telling me that it was in the opposite direction. I decided I had missed
it, and continued on to Chemax, which was on my map, and shown on my
GPS map. It is clear that the road I took is not on my map of the Yucatan. I suppose that is the penalty for a 1:1,000,000 scale map, the
best I could find.
The next major city was Valladolid, and it was clearly too far
away. At about 3:30pm, I started looking for a place to camp, and finally
found one that was acceptable just before sunset. It was in an unused
farm road, and completely isolated from the highway. I had rejected at
least six possibilities, for various reasons, earlier.
5 Chemax Camp to Chemax Camp, Sun. Nov. 16
It was a beautiful night, and brilliant sunshine, at my back as I rode
the 30km or so to Valladolid, where the recently changed sign
announcing the town said that they were now 69,749. However, before that,
I took the old road through the charming little village of Ticuch.
I didn't realise how charming it was until I came back late in the
afternoon and discovered that the village was being overrun by a busload
of French tourists.
I arrived in Valladolid at about 8:30am and discovered that the town
was in fully active with families and commerce in the main square.
Not all streets in Mexico are trashy,
as I discovered while making my way out of town towards the
Lonely Planet recommended underground cenote about
7km west near the village of Dznitup. I stopped first in Dznitup,
and was greeted by curious folks. I have graduated to Shop Spanish
but not to Conversation by the Square Spanish.
The cenote, which was back about 1km towards Valladolid, was as
advertised - a clear, clean, underground pool with stalactites hanging
from the ceiling.
My only swimming companions were a couple from Grenoble. It was a
delightful, cooling experience.
I had intended to go north to see another small ruin at Ek Balám,
but decided after 4km up the road, that this was silly in the heat and
sun so I went back to Valladolid. I had really wanted to go to the
Rio Lagartos National Park to see the flamingo colony, but it was
obvious that I would not have the time, so I opted for the simpler
route.
On the way into town, I bought some barbecued chicken, and had a late
lunch, with a can of beer, in the square. In the early afternoon it was
almost empty - siesta time?
Instead of staying in Valladolid, I decided to ride the 25km back to
my campsite of last night. I was confident that I could find the
campsite again, because I had recorded it on my GPS. However, without
the trash at the entrance to mark it, I passed right by, and had to come
back.
I set up camp and it was a good and quiet night.
6 Chemax Camp to Cancun(almost), Mon. Nov. 17
Today turned out to be a long one of 117km, with several failures, but
it was a good day.
I was only about 3km from Chemax, and about 135km from Cancun. My first stop was Chemax. At 7:00am, it was, indeed very
much alive.
The single speed tricycle in front of my banana store is a favourite
mode of transportation for woodcutters and families.
Just on the edge of town was a small, traditional? farm.
However, the surprise of the day came just as I left town.
The next small village was Catzin.
On both sides of the village of X-can, there was a bike path, that
except for the sharp little hills was much better than the road for the
tricycles - and for me.
X-can was just off the main road, and was not the last, of several
villages that I passed.
Just outside of X-can, I was able to fill all my water bottles (8
litres) with, supposedly drinkable water. I would have bought some of
the spring, purified water, but the choices were 1 litre, and 20 litre
bottles. When I hesitated, the kid at the store said that the large
cistern had "agua potable". However, I will filter it just in case.
At about 3:30pm, I started seriously to look for a place to camp. I now
had enough water to wash clothes so I was willing to stop early. At
about 4:10pm, I found an access road to a large power line, but after
some thought, recorded it on my GPS for future reference, and decided to
continue on to Leona Vicario and take the small road south to
El Dos ruins. I asked, Leona Vicario about the road and was
told it was terrible, and barely, if at all passable. There were no
signs, so that appears to have been official policy.
It was now within 10min of sunset, and I had gone 10km from my marked
campsite. It would be completely dark, and a waste of 20km, so I
continued on to Cancun, which appears to have the only camping that
anybody knows about.
It was getting quite dark, when I decided that I had to camp. The small
power line by the side of the road had short access openings to the
power poles and I stopped at one of them. There was a road, overgrown
with small shrubs, that would have to do. However, as I was unloading my
bike, unfortunately visible from the road, a car and truck, stopped
almost beside me and turned into the next farm, about 50m down the
road. Evidently, my cover was blown, so I repacked and continued into
Cancun. It was now so dark that I couldn't see anything by the side
of the road so I was reconciled to riding the 40km into town. Except for
not being able to see well, this was the pleasantest cycling weather I
have had.
Not giving up totally on finding a place, I stopped at an open Mini
Super and asked if I could camp. Again the advice was, "Go to
Cancun." At the second one, I was greeted by Fabian, who had also
stopped, and he told me "I almost killed you back there. Your light is
too low!". Indeed it was aimed too low, and I promptly fixed it. Then
he asked "What are you doing out?". I told him that I was looking for
a place to camp, and he offered me the possibility of camping, on nice
grass, at his father's Rancho, that was only 6km down the road
towards Cancun. I thought this was great, but demurred from trying to
stuff my bike and trailer into his Toyota Corolla. The trailer plus 4
people was just too much. He offered to escort me to the Rancho, and
drove along behind me the whole way. The whole way turned out to be
15km and I was totally exhausted.
Fabian introduced me to his sister, Patricia, and her son Alexandro, a
guest, Suzanne from Louisville, and his mother. Then my bike was hauled
through the house and out to the garden. The garden has a pool,
showers, tennis courts, horses, and a playing field. The Rancho has
become a Centro Recreativo Hacuna Matata. I set up my tent beside
the a swing, with Alexandro observing until I had finished, drank my
last beer, and was about to take a shower, when Alexandro came back and
invited me to have something to eat. Patricia cooked a super Mexican
meal just for me, and Alexandro made some fresh squeezed fruit juice. It
was wonderful.
7 Cancun, Tues. Nov. 18
This was the best camping I had on the entire trip.
I wanted to say "adios", but no one, except Patricia's other brother,
was up so I just left. It was a short ride into Cancun, where I
spent a very lazy morning and afternoon sitting and observing. I arrived
at the CREA at about 3:30pm, set up camp, crossed their beach to go
for a swim, but quit before I even got wet because I didn't want to
fight the seaweed. I also failed in my attempt to take a shower at
5:00pm - no water. It was to be on in an hour. I failed again at
6:00pm - now the water was supposed to be on in another 30min - but
was successful at 10:30pm. There was no water. again, in the morning.
8 Cancun to Montreal, Wed./Thurs Nov. 19/20
It was a beautiful sunrise, but the day was not without complications. I
discovered that I had broken a spoke, tried to take it out, and stupidly, turned it in the wrong direction and punctured the tube. I
finally had to replace the tube, and put on the new spoke, and was on my
way, with a very soft tire - perhaps I need a better pump.
I again went to the airport via the Zona Hotelera, with big, and
bigger hotels.
Apparently, there are still not enough of them.
Just after I arrived at the airport it started to rain, and continued
until I left.
The rest of the trip home was appropriately uneventful.
9 Some Comments
A number of tourists I met wondered how safe it was to ride because of
the wildness of the Mexican drivers. I didn't have any problems, and was
usually given more than enough margin. However, it does appear that the
government feels that reminders are necessary.
My entire trip was about 535km (330 miles), mostly flat, except for a
few hills around X-can. I found it too hot and humid, and the
countryside did not have much variety. Water was indeed a problem.
11 Google Earth Map of Trip
This is the link to the Google Earth Map of the entire
trip in the Yucatan.
File translated from
TEX
by
TTH,
version 3.64.
On 16 Aug 2006, 04:11.
I rode south through the Zona Hotelera, that is the heart of very upscale
tourist area of Cancun. Some places were just small tourist traps,
but the most were huge, gated estates. Although all beaches in Mexico
are public, there was no way you get to the ones that were here.
On the way down, I discovered that, contrary to the information in
Lonely Planet, my ordinary North American cell phone could connect to the
local network, and my provider allowed me to roam here. I won't use it
again except for an emergency.
The ride south of the airport, where the road from the Zona
Hotelera comes out, was very straight, very flat,
occasionally rainy,
very hot, with a wonderful strong tailwind. At 3:30pm, with sunset about
an hour and a half later, I could not push my bike forward with any real
consistency. It was also clear I was not going to make my preferred
destination of Xel-Ha. At about 4:00pm, I found a great, very
isolated, place to camp, behind a power substation. I put up my tent, and
collapsed inside to sleep off my heat exhaustion. At 8:00pm, I awoke,
went outside to wash, made supper, and went to bed.
It was an exhausting day, but a good one. Except for the heat, it was
the easiest riding I have had for a long time. The highway was busy but
he shoulder was wide, and it was with the prevailing winds.
As I was buying my entrance fee, $29mex, about $2:50us, three curious
kittens discovered my bike.
The ruins were small, and surrounded by jungle.
The cenote was off limits for swimming.
The major ruins for the day were at Tulum
This is very large compared to Xel-ha, but tiny compared to
Chichén Itzá. Its real beauty is its setting on the Caribbean.
The nice folks at the Lonely Planet recommended Weary Traveler in
Tulum, told me that there were campgrounds on the beach, about 6km
away and even gave me a map. I stopped at Camping Santa Fe, which
is really in business selling cabanas, and set up just behind one of
them, in a very fine sand. The beach was large, fine white sand, and
sufficient wave action to preclude any snorkeling. I think I much
prefer grassy plots on which to camp - much less messy.
It appears that quiet hour does not exist at this beach
resort. Someone turned on their ghetto blaster at 10:00pm, and I
was entertained, continuously, with salsa rock music until 5:00am. I
wonder that the batteries lasted so long.
I didn't realise how charming it was until I came back late in the
afternoon and discovered that the village was being overrun by a busload
of French tourists.
I arrived in Valladolid at about 8:30am and discovered that the town
was in fully active with families and commerce in the main square.
Not all streets in Mexico are trashy,
as I discovered while making my way out of town towards the
Lonely Planet recommended underground cenote about
7km west near the village of Dznitup. I stopped first in Dznitup,
and was greeted by curious folks. I have graduated to Shop Spanish
but not to Conversation by the Square Spanish.
The cenote, which was back about 1km towards Valladolid, was as
advertised - a clear, clean, underground pool with stalactites hanging
from the ceiling.
My only swimming companions were a couple from Grenoble. It was a
delightful, cooling experience.
I had intended to go north to see another small ruin at Ek Balám,
but decided after 4km up the road, that this was silly in the heat and
sun so I went back to Valladolid. I had really wanted to go to the
Rio Lagartos National Park to see the flamingo colony, but it was
obvious that I would not have the time, so I opted for the simpler
route.
On the way into town, I bought some barbecued chicken, and had a late
lunch, with a can of beer, in the square. In the early afternoon it was
almost empty - siesta time?
Instead of staying in Valladolid, I decided to ride the 25km back to
my campsite of last night. I was confident that I could find the
campsite again, because I had recorded it on my GPS. However, without
the trash at the entrance to mark it, I passed right by, and had to come
back.
I set up camp and it was a good and quiet night.
The single speed tricycle in front of my banana store is a favourite
mode of transportation for woodcutters and families.
Just on the edge of town was a small, traditional? farm.
However, the surprise of the day came just as I left town.
The next small village was Catzin.
On both sides of the village of X-can, there was a bike path, that
except for the sharp little hills was much better than the road for the
tricycles - and for me.
X-can was just off the main road, and was not the last, of several
villages that I passed.
Just outside of X-can, I was able to fill all my water bottles (8
litres) with, supposedly drinkable water. I would have bought some of
the spring, purified water, but the choices were 1 litre, and 20 litre
bottles. When I hesitated, the kid at the store said that the large
cistern had "agua potable". However, I will filter it just in case.
At about 3:30pm, I started seriously to look for a place to camp. I now
had enough water to wash clothes so I was willing to stop early. At
about 4:10pm, I found an access road to a large power line, but after
some thought, recorded it on my GPS for future reference, and decided to
continue on to Leona Vicario and take the small road south to
El Dos ruins. I asked, Leona Vicario about the road and was
told it was terrible, and barely, if at all passable. There were no
signs, so that appears to have been official policy.
It was now within 10min of sunset, and I had gone 10km from my marked
campsite. It would be completely dark, and a waste of 20km, so I
continued on to Cancun, which appears to have the only camping that
anybody knows about.
It was getting quite dark, when I decided that I had to camp. The small
power line by the side of the road had short access openings to the
power poles and I stopped at one of them. There was a road, overgrown
with small shrubs, that would have to do. However, as I was unloading my
bike, unfortunately visible from the road, a car and truck, stopped
almost beside me and turned into the next farm, about 50m down the
road. Evidently, my cover was blown, so I repacked and continued into
Cancun. It was now so dark that I couldn't see anything by the side
of the road so I was reconciled to riding the 40km into town. Except for
not being able to see well, this was the pleasantest cycling weather I
have had.
Not giving up totally on finding a place, I stopped at an open Mini
Super and asked if I could camp. Again the advice was, "Go to
Cancun." At the second one, I was greeted by Fabian, who had also
stopped, and he told me "I almost killed you back there. Your light is
too low!". Indeed it was aimed too low, and I promptly fixed it. Then
he asked "What are you doing out?". I told him that I was looking for
a place to camp, and he offered me the possibility of camping, on nice
grass, at his father's Rancho, that was only 6km down the road
towards Cancun. I thought this was great, but demurred from trying to
stuff my bike and trailer into his Toyota Corolla. The trailer plus 4
people was just too much. He offered to escort me to the Rancho, and
drove along behind me the whole way. The whole way turned out to be
15km and I was totally exhausted.
Fabian introduced me to his sister, Patricia, and her son Alexandro, a
guest, Suzanne from Louisville, and his mother. Then my bike was hauled
through the house and out to the garden. The garden has a pool,
showers, tennis courts, horses, and a playing field. The Rancho has
become a Centro Recreativo Hacuna Matata. I set up my tent beside
the a swing, with Alexandro observing until I had finished, drank my
last beer, and was about to take a shower, when Alexandro came back and
invited me to have something to eat. Patricia cooked a super Mexican
meal just for me, and Alexandro made some fresh squeezed fruit juice. It
was wonderful.
I wanted to say "adios", but no one, except Patricia's other brother,
was up so I just left. It was a short ride into Cancun, where I
spent a very lazy morning and afternoon sitting and observing. I arrived
at the CREA at about 3:30pm, set up camp, crossed their beach to go
for a swim, but quit before I even got wet because I didn't want to
fight the seaweed. I also failed in my attempt to take a shower at
5:00pm - no water. It was to be on in an hour. I failed again at
6:00pm - now the water was supposed to be on in another 30min - but
was successful at 10:30pm. There was no water. again, in the morning.
Apparently, there are still not enough of them.
Just after I arrived at the airport it started to rain, and continued
until I left.
The rest of the trip home was appropriately uneventful.
