Copenhagen to Århus
October 23 / November 4, 1996

Michael J. Ferguson
Montréal

Les Publications INRS-Télécommunications, Montréal

Journal Index

Contents

1  Wednesday, October 23, Montréal
2  Thursday, October 24, Copenhagen
3  Friday, October 25, Copenhagen
4  Saturday, October 25, Kalundborg
5  Sunday, October 27, Arhus
6  Monday, October 28 to Friday, November 1, Arhus
7  Saturday, November 2, Arhus
8  Sunday, November 3, Fredriksvæ rk
9  Monday, November 4, Copenhagen
10  Maps

I am on my way to Århus, Denmark to participate in the BRICS AutumnSchool on Verification of Software. Although Wednesday is my actual departure date, my trip really started on Sunday. I decided it would be prudent, especially after the trouble that I had with my brakes this summer on the Blue Ridge Parkway , to check and pack my bike early. Indeed it was. I discovered, much to my dismay that the frame was broken - the rear wheel dropout that holds the back wheel on was cracked. Last summer when I was putting in a new back fence, I broke my post hole digger and got an oxy-butane welding torch to braze it. I used it to braze the dropout. With a few more minor repairs, I was able to put it in my ``bike pack''. Perhaps I need a new bike. The airlines are not gentle.

1  Wednesday, October 23, Montréal

Virginia drove me to Mirabel and we arrived at 3:15 for my 5:15 flight. I am flying Swissair to Zurich and continuing on a Swissair ``commuter'', Crossair flight to Copenhagen I arrive in Copenhagen at about 9:00am, about four hours earlier than any competitor. It will allow me to spend almost a whole day in Copenhagen, exploring this year's European Cultural Capital.

Mirabel has changed - a bit. It is still as empty as ever, but for the first time, I actually walked to my flight through a conventional gate. SR 135 is a ``codeshare'' with Air Canada. Codesharing seems to be quite common these days but it is the first time that I have actually seen a mixed air crew - Air Canada and Swissair. The flight was only about one third full and was appropriately uneventful. Even with a mixed crew the service was remarkably efficient. The bar service started 30 minutes after takeoff and dinner started 30 minutes later. I opted for Mumm's Champagne Cuvée Airplane instead of the Swiss white wine. The Cuvée Airplane was acceptable but undistinguished. I did try the Swiss white for dinner. It was a little too sweet for the chicken, which itself was quite good. The best wine, though was a Côtes du Rhone red.

** Swissair kept us informed on the distance to the ``terminus'', including telling it was 457m to the terminal after we had landed.

At the moment I am waiting for the flight to Copenhagen, SR 3400 operated by Crossair. This flight looks as though it is full - and a little late.

I was wrong. The combined gate area was full of people going somewhere, but not to Copenhagen. The man who sat down beside me was on his way to Dresden. We took off in the dark at about 7:25am and passed semi clouds outside of Zurich. By the time the sun rose at about 8:15am we were over complete cloud cover way below. The pilot assured us that there were only scattered clouds in Copenhagen. He was right - it was a beautiful day when we landed.

2  Thursday, October 24, Copenhagen

When I arrived at Baggage Claim, my purple bag was about to go around for the second (third?) time. I retrieved it before it disappeared with my bike pack not too far behind. Putting my bike together was not too eventful - except that I sheared of the bolt that held the front rack to the frame. I was unable to loosen the lock nut that held the bolt until I remembered that I had put a small, homemade square screw driver in my small fanny pack. It worked beautifully. The major concern for the day was to find some camping gas for my stove, a decent map of Copenhagen, and some stamps - and eventually the Hostel. I rode into the center of town and saw nothing that looked remotely like a sporting goods store. My foray into service stations drew blanks on the maps. As I stopped for a bicycle traffic light just west of the closed Tivoli, Annette stopped and asked me where I was from - and where I was going. Then we started trading stories. She had spent six months camping and bicycle touring in New Zealand and also had spent some time bicycling on Vancouver Island. I asked her where I could buy some Camping Gaz and she led me to her favorite camping store - I never would have found it myself. I got my gas and after I told her my plans, she invited me home for lunch and offered to put me up for the night. Annette has a three year old daughter, Line (pronounced ``Leeneh'') who was presently at day care. After lunch, when Annette went out to pick up Line, I took a short tour of downtown Copenhagen. Almost all the main streets have bicycle lanes and even bicycle lights. It makes getting around town rather easy. However, the lanes are quite crowded and there is a rather strict ``passing'' protocol. If you hear a bell behind you, you are expected to pull over and let the impatient one by. There are a number of parks in downtown Copenhagen, but they are all off limits to bicycles. I wandered around town, found my stamps, decided I didn't need a new map of Copenhagen, and also decided that the ``Bicycle Touring Map of Denmark'' that I had wanted was not as good as the map I now have.

This afternoon's ride was quite unusual in that I was riding on a totally empty bike - not even any saddle bags. This meant that I was unable to bring anything home for dinner. I returned to Annette's apartment at about 6:00pm and then walked over to the Irma market to buy some beer. She was actually out with Line looking for me, at Line's insistence. She returned when I was at Irma's, and was about to start dinner when I arrived. While she cooked, I entertained Line - by smiles and friendly tones since my words to her were total nonsense. It was fun to see a three year old's enthusiasm and smiles.

Annette also has Felicia, a grey 4 month old Siamese and Felix, 3 month old white Siamese. Felicia is the friendliest Siamese I have ever seen. After some petting and friendly pats, she took to jumping up on my lap, and occasionally retreating there as Line was a little too abrupt with her. Felicia and Felix also have their wars. I thought my admonitions to cats ``No wars guys!'' had finished when I left Kali and Smokey at home.

Now, Annette and Line have gone to bed, in the same bedroom, and I am in the living room writing. Tomorrow I am off towards Odense.

3  Friday, October 25, Copenhagen

I left at a very civilized 8:30am after saying goodbye to Felix, Felicia, Line and Annette. On the bike path going down to the road to Roskilde, I was greeted by guy who had been two months bicycling in China. He cured me of ever going there by bike. He had intended to stay six months but quit after two because of the unfriendliness of the Chinese. He also saved me my first wrong turn of the day. I inadvertently had gotten onto a different road and was little confused. His turn instructions got me back to the intended way. There was a bike path the entire 40km to Roskilde. Almost all the major highways have bike paths. The smaller ``Marguerite'' (Scenic and Danish for ``daisy'') roads do not but don't need them. Roskilde was an ancient capital of Denmark. It has a pleasant shopping area and a slightly disappointing RÅdhus and Dom square. Both the RÅdhus (City Hall) and the Dom (Cathedral) were made of nondescript red brick. I was not excited. I stopped at McDonald's, possibly to have some breakfast, but really to rearrange my map, out of the wind. I was late but it was clear, from the fact that they opened at 10:00am that they did not serve breakfast. I was not tempted to have anything else - small fries were 11DKr ($2.75), an ordinary hamburger was 25DKr ($6) and a Happy meal went for 45DKr ($11).

I passed by the university1 and cut almost due west towards the ferry at Korsør. It had become a beautiful sunny day after the early morning clouds. The wind, however, was so strong that the poor black-headed crows could only fly backwards. It is apparent that the winds are quite consistent. There are huge three bladed electric generating windmills all over the Zealand countryside. The blades on these monsters are about the size of a large Dutch windmill, but much higher off the ground. The winds, and the fact that the ferry at Korsør, was about 110km, made me change my plans and go directly to Kalundborg. At this point the routes to both Korsør and Kalundborg were identical. I had gotten this question continuously ``Why aren't you going via Kalundborg?'' There is a ferry directly from Kalundborg to Århus. In fact I have two choices - direct to Århus or via the small island of Samsø. I shall see tomorrow.

For the most part the route was uninspiring rolling countryside - with extreme winds. The official ``Marguerite'' routes seemed to be defined by having pretty thatched roof or mossy tile roofed cottages. The non-scenic routes were almost totally devoid of thatched cottages.

** The first signs said ``St. Merlose'' - obviously ``Saint Merlose'' - not really - when the signs got bigger the full name appeared, ``Store Merlose''.

I arrived at Kalundborg at just about sunset - 5:30pm. My first view was rows of towers creating a haze over the entire sky. This was the industrial area, across the bay, south of the main residential area of town. The town was not unscathed - there was an unmistakable stench in the air. After stopping at a Netto grocery store for bananas and beer, I found the hostel. It is new, and quite plush. After a half hour, they found me a ``single'' room, their last, and I had a place to stay. The rest of the hostel seems to be filled with a Russian tour group. The ``single'' actually has four beds and a private bath, but it is indeed all mine - for 250Dkr ($60). Although breakfast was probably a relatively good deal at 40Dkr ($10), I decided it was really too expensive. I will make do with my coffee and bananas, and some Swissair chocolate.

Like all the northern European countries, Denmark is a beer, rather than a wine, country. The well known Tuborg and Carlsberg are here with a huge variety of types, along with many local breweries. Here in Kalundborg, at least at Netto, it was Harboe. Some views on Harboe beer:

Today I was actually riding for 6 hours and 50 minutes and covered 118km (75mi). About a month ago I lost my Avocet Bicycle trip computer (it had an altimeter) somewhere between the garage door and the house. My new trip computer does not have an altimeter but does have an elapsed riding time clock that only works when the wheels are moving. Now it is easy, without calculation to figure out how long I have been in the saddle.

4  Saturday, October 25, Kalundborg

Today started at an almost civilized 5:30am. The kitchen here is quite nice, clean and spacious. I decided to make coffee there rather than risk tripping one of the three smoke detectors in my room.

For the past couple of weeks I have been monitoring, on the internet, the weather forecasts in Copenhagen. A week ago last Wednesday, the forecast was, ``rainy, cloudy, and dreary''. Today, I think fit that bill. It started out cloudy, dribbled, showered, returned to clouds, and then some more showers. During the last shower I was safely in my hotel in Århus.

It is Saturday so there are very few ferries anywhere. The only ferry to Samsø left at about 11:00am and it was not at all obvious that I could get off Samsø today. Since I missed the 9:00am to Århus, I had to settle for the 12:10pm. I spent the morning wandering around Kalundborg, looking for something to eat for lunch on the boat. I was astounded at the supermarket prices - two to four times the price in Montréal, except, perhaps for beer, which was about the same. I finally settled for two smørebrod, and some beer. The two Harboe Pilseners, 110 and Special??, were pleasant but not too inspired. The smørebrod were quite interesting (17Dkr - $4.25 each). First was a ``cirkelbrod'', shredded ham and tomatoes on a circular woven pita bread. The second was ham and cheese inside a triangle of very thick pizza bread.

The old city of Kalundborg is up on the ``Temple Mount'' - the hill topped by the church. The half-timbered row houses stretch in lines down the sides of the hill. The Museum is a half-timbered square with an inner courtyard. It is painted yellow so the half-timbers are almost invisible. I peeked in the window - the exhibit signs were only in Danish so I declined to enter. On a small square near the bottom of the hill, a vegetable market was being set up. It was about 10:30am - a very late start compared to other markets that I have seen in Europe.

The ferry has two decks, the upper one, outside has only cars and the lower one, inside is has huge trucks and bicycles. I shared the lower deck with two other bicycles and three trucks - very empty. The voyage over was a quite smooth three hours. There was drizzle on and off for the entire trip but I spent most of the time in a quite pleasant, non-smoking lounge, right by a window, staring out at a world gone by.

I spent the last few minutes on deck as we entered the Århus harbour. It is indeed a working harbor with the ferry docks buried deeply inside. Århus was spread out behind, and much to my surprise, up on an escarpment. The most interesting, and distressing thing about the harbor was the Flotel Europa. It was a five story white and rust residential floating barge - not exactly an inviting tourist destination.

I was the first off my deck, the deck-master holding an impatient truck driver to let me go. Århus appears to be exceedingly pleasant. The strøget (pedestrian mall) is wide and full of people - although only about half the stores are open. There was no sun, but no rain either. It was much fun being lost in the center of town. I finally found Eriksens Hotel. I was a little worried because I was a day earlier than I originally planned. Fortunately they had a room. Like last night, it was the last one. In fact, it was multiply fortunate because they had no record of my reservation. However, no real harm done. I have a room for the week.

The room is quite pleasant, very small (only slightly larger than my tent), and with a view of several houses in back. The rooms on the street are much noisier. It also has one advantage that more upscale hotels, and the hostel in Kalundborg, seem to lack, a window that opens. It is nice to get fresh air.

5  Sunday, October 27, Århus

Today started off with bright sun and some clouds, but by noon had become drizzly gray. I took advantage of the morning to visit Den Gamle By. This is a museum village almost in the center of Å rhus. Houses and shops have been collected from all over Scandinavia, restored and rebuilt in the park. Although the entry fee is 50Dkr ($12.50), it is free to walk around before it opens. It is indeed much fun that early, and quiet, with only a few other people and some noisy geese. It was easy to look in the windows to see what was inside but the real interest, for me, was the outside of the buildings. They are in the process of restoring the Fylla, one of the last pure sail fishing boats built in Denmark. After they have finished, they are going to launch it in the ``bay''. I hope they know how to caulk. There are 1cm gaps between their restored boards. The small lapboard boat sitting in the middle of their canal looked quite lake worthy - perhaps too small for the sea.

** Århus is really shut down on Sunday. Sunday does not even appear on the list of days that the stores are open. Being open on Saturday appears to be sufficiently unusual that it is announced in the windows.

It is now 1:45pm and I am sitting in my new room. The hotel people decided that, since I was staying such a long time, I deserved a larger room. I am now in double that is more than twice as big as my single. It is much more comfortable, but does come with a smaller desk and fewer electric outlets, and smells a little of cigarettes - however, it is an improvement - and I shall air it out.

The rest of the afternoon was rain - I went out to test my raingear. It was pleasantly wet - and quiet.

6  Monday, October 28 to Friday, November 1, Århus

Monday and Tuesday were tailor made for a workshop - drizzle all day. It was suggested to us that, because the workshop programme was so good, and we were almost certain to get a cold if we wandered around outside instead of coming to the sessions, and that it was definitely in our best interests to attend. The programme has been, indeed, excellent, but, unfortunately, I have not avoided a cold by attending. The cold arrived, even though I have faithfully been to all the presentations.

Danish numbers are quite curious

** My curiosity was aroused by a strange, apparent anomaly in some numbers. 50 is halvtreds and 100 is hundrede. What is a treds. After asking several Danes about the strangeness, and getting less than satisfactory answers, I got a plausible explanation. It starts with 60, which is tres and 3 which is tre. In old Danish 60 was tre (times) tyve or three times twenty. The times twenty was dropped and the ``s'' added, from the times, I think, to distinguish it from three. 50 is a little more curious. The halv in front tre(d)s uses the Roman convention of subtraction if the symbol appears out of order as in the Roman nine, IX. Thus halvtreds or really halv tre is 2.5. Thus 50 is 2.5 times 20. Since 4 is fire, 80 is firs which is short for 4 times 20. 70 is halvfjerds or 3.5 times 20, with fjerd being an old spelling of fire. 5 is fem and 90 is halvfems. 30 and 40 do not seem to fit the pattern. 30 is tredive, curiously like 3 times 10 although 10 is ti, and 40 is fyrre.

Wednesday morning was a pleasant surprise. There was not a cloud in the sky. I went up to Den Gamle By to take some pictures before the morning meetings. The sun was still out but the village was mostly in shadow.

At noon, we were assembled for a group picture. By then the sun was dancing in and out of the clouds. It was quite cloudy just as we finished, and started to pour rain on our way back. This apparently was just a passing shower with dry clouds returning about 20 minutes later. This afternoon was a planned excursion at the Steno Museum. I decided to forego that, and instead, wander about town, taking some pictures, and looking for a picture book of Århus. The only one I found was a 40 page five by seven inch paperback that cost $25. I decided it was too expensive.

Our excursion day ended with a dinner at the St. Clements Brew Pub. Dinner was a first course of pickled herring followed by pork ribs and baked potato. Robert Jones, from Stanford, commented that it seemed more American than Danish. The dinner was quite good but I was disappointed that they had only one brew, a light lager. I was even more distressed when I left and discovered that someone had, literally, ripped off, the rear flashing light on my bike. I will get a standard Danish rear red light tomorrow, but I am not certain how I am going to attach it.

Thursday started out normally and ended normally - dreary drizzle. I was able to get a new LED flasher light for my bike. Much to my surprise, it is the first thing that I have seen in Denmark that is actually cheaper than at home. The flasher cost me 23Dkr (about $6). I bought two. I asked Judi Romijn, a Dutch student from Amsterdam, her impression of costs here in Denmark. She felt they were one and half to twice what they were in Holland.

Friday started out wet, but ended up dry, sunny and windy - I hope it holds. We had lectures in the morning and a panel discussion in the afternoon. After the panel discussion, the students presented the organisers of the week with a poster signed by themselves. I thought it was a wonderful gesture. Judi said it really just reflected how they felt. Tonight we have a farewell dinner and I leave tomorrow morning at 4:30am to catch the 5:10am ferry to Kalundborg. Except for the weather, and my worst cold in ten years, it has been a very informative and interesting week.

7  Saturday, November 2, Århus

I missed the ferry - I woke up at 4:30am after a late night at our Farewell Dinner. It takes some time to pack and I arrived about 10 minutes late - hopefully I won't miss the 8:05 - that is the last ferry today.

I didn't miss the 8:05, and I was able to get breakfast before I left. The sail back was similar to the one coming last Saturday - cloudy, gray, and drizzly. By 11:15am when we got to Kalundborg, it was just gray. I stopped to buy bananas and some Danish cheese as a gift, at Netto, and was on my way at about noon. Bananas are cheap at Netto, 25 cents each, small or large rather than 50 or 75 cents each in other supermarkets.

Since the scenic routes are so well marked, and there was one most of the way to my next ferry, I decided to follow it. I was very disappointed that I had gone about 35km and seen only rolling farmland, a small corral of geese, a couple of miniature bulls, and a black faced ram that seemed more curious than offensive. There were no thatched roof cottages, or anything other than deer crossings that were really just wishful thinking.

The first excursion from the ordinary was a detour to the coast towards Havensø. After passing over a cattle guard, there was a flat, wet (pools and streams), green heath-like expanse leading to the ocean It was punctuated by isolated junipers, each about three feet high - totally unexpected. The second and last excursion also led towards the ocean, this time to Ordrup. This was continuous display, some very new, of thatched cottages, farm houses, and estates. Some were very new, with yellow thatch. You got the distinct impression that there might have been a zoning law.

It wasn't until I got to the woods and hills that there was the occasional ordinary roof. Yes there were hills - not very high, but occasionally, moderrately steep. It was the first real workout that I have had in Denmark, other than winds. Today was a wonderful day for wind - mostly at my back.

The new road, DK225, into Nykøbing was off limits to bikes. We were forced, to take the, mostly deserted, but more interesting old road. Nykøbing is a quiet, pleasant, possibly dull, clean little rural town. It is the biggest since Kalundborg. From there to Rørvig, I joined Dk225 again, the highway from which bikes were previously banned. Here there was a bike path. I arrived at about ten to four, with the next ferry leaving in about 1/2 hour - just about average since the return crossing takes about an hour. It was getting quite dark when I arrived at about ten to five, but I was assured, by a guy on the ferry that there was a bicycle path all the way to Fredriksværk and my next hostel. It was not exactly true, but was close where the road was not residential. I don't mind riding at night in cities, but unlit, dark, wet roads are quite uncomfortable. Fortunately, there was only one short stretch like that on this trip.

The Hostel in Fredriksværk. is attached to the campground. It is reasonably new, with nice showers and kitchen My private room cost 125Dkr ($30), exactly half the cost of Kalundborg. Perhaps this is due to the fact there are only two beds in the room, and only an external bath, shower and basin. As far as I can tell, I am the only one in this section of the hostel. I will continue to use the girl's bathroom - it is just across the hall.

Today I rode 87km (53mi) in four and a half hours. My maximum speed was 58km/h (almost 40mph). Some of the hills were, indeed, moderately steep.

8  Sunday, November 3, Fredriksvæ rk

Today is to be a castle day. I am going to visit the Fredensborg castle at Hillerød to see if it is the ``castle floating in the middle of the lake'' that I remember from our visit in 1971. I am also going to Helsingør to visit Virginia's castle. She played Queen Gertrude in Hamlet. Hillerød is only 22km from here so the first castle should be quite an easy ride, subject to weather depredations.

Except for a flat tire it was an uneventful ride. There was just a little bit of intermittent drizzle to distract me. Fredenssborg is really a palace rather than a castle. It sits on the corner of a lake and is most often seen from across it. However, it does not float on three islands in the middle. It is big, brick, externally quite ornate, and was falling into ruin at the end of the last century until rescued by a nouveau riche, a Carlsberg. It is still being scaffolded.

From Hillerød I started north on a Marguerite route towards Tikob. This road ran by the Estum Sø(Sea) and was indeed quite pleasant rolling hillside by the lake with only an occasional thatched cottage. The highlight of the day was on this road. It was not a magnificent castle but rather the Gurre Slotsruin. This small castle ruin dates from the ninth century with an inner stone tower, about 15m in diameter with an internal well. The outer curtain wall was built in the 12the century. It had an inner core of about 1m to 1.5m of stone and faced by brick. I can only wonder if the brick that was here, and all over Denmark covering prestigious buildings, had military technical advantages, or reflected perceived social status.

Kornberg Castle in Helsingør is a real castle. It was originally built to extract tolls from ships passing in the narrow channel between Denmark and Sweden. It is, of course, most famous for being Hamlet's home. I walked around the outside, and in to the inner courtyard. Each internal feature had a separate ticket. A complete visit would have cost about 150Dkr ($33). I had neither the inclination to spend that much, nor the time. It was about 1:30pm and I still had 50 to 60km to Copenhagen. Sunset was at 4:30pm.

Once I found it, the coast road lived up to its Marguerite ratings. As I expected, this part of the trip was almost pure headwind. Even the more or less continuous drizzle did not destroy the elegance of the houses, and estates, and the occasional view of a choppy surf. The only people crazier than I, were a group of about 20 kayakers that had just hauled there kayaks out of the ocean. They were extracting their bodies, both men and women, from their wet gear as I passed. I stopped at that point for a banana refueling stop and to observe.

After about 100km (60m), I arrived in northern Copenhagen. It was completely dark when I arrived at Annette's. Her mother was visiting, so it was quite awkward for me to stay. I said hello to Felix, Felicia, the two cats and especially to Line. Then I continued on to the Amager Hostel by the airport. I took a new way, following Annette's explicit instructions, into the center of Copenhagen, and had no confidence that it was going right. The road changed names four or five times, until it finally ended up with buildings that I recognized. I would not have wanted to do this while rushing to the airport. I finally found the hostel, after asking directions several times. I didn't see any signs directing me towards it and almost missed their sign out front. Daylight would have been easier.

A single room here costs 165Dkr ($40) and left me with a total of only 10Dkr in cash. The only semi nourishing things I could get for that was a small ice cream bar and some potato chips. They complimented the bottle of wine that I had intended to give to Annette.

I rode 115km (70mi) and, much to my surprise, was actually riding for almost seven hours.

9  Monday, November 4, Copenhagen

Getting to the airport was more of a problem than I had imagined. It wasn't very far, but I couldn't find the bike path. The main road was under construction, and it was pitch dark. I hoped I could go down the closed section. It was wishful thinking. After about 500m it dropped off into a muddy chasm. After some circles, I found a path that said it led to the Lufthaven. This was it. From there it was easy. It took about an hour to take my bike apart and pack it. I guess my dirty wet clothes are heavy. The bike and clothes for stuffing came in at 30.5kg. I was afraid I was going to trip their overweight alarm, but they let it go. It is now 9:05 and they still have not posted a gate for my 9:35 flight - ugh!

Finally, Gate 12 - the furthest one away. We left the gate about 10 minutes late, and had to wait another 20 minutes to take off. Apparently Copenhagen was quite busy. However, that was nothing compared to the arrival at Zurich. When we arrived, we had to circle for about a half hour. It was bright, sunny, with the Austrian Alps rising snow covered to the east, and dead castles on top of the conical hills that dotted the landscape. After four circles we landed, approximately 40 minutes late. There was only 40 minutes before my Swissair flight to Montréal left. I raced over to the correct wing, for Gate 70, to be very disappointed that the duty-free shop consisted of a small stand. Somewhere in the airport there is a huge duty-free shop that I remember as one of the best in Europe.

I was, and still am, quite worried that my bags did not make it from Copenhagen. However, the lady at the Swissair counter assured me that there would be no problem. We shall see - but the pain is minimal if there is a day delay since I am coming home.

Although we got away from the gate almost on time, we had a twenty minute delay to take off - too much incoming and outgoing traffic. Zurich appears to be getting over loaded. I appear to have done Mumm's of France a disservice. I asked for some champagne on this flight and the flight attendant insisted it cost and extra 10Sfr. I protested, and he produced a bottle of Mumm Cuvée Airline. This appears to be sparkling wine from G.H. Mumm & Co. Sektkellereien of Hocheim, Germany.

Lunch was a very nice Chicken Kiev, not quite as exciting as I remember it on Thai International from Calcutta to Bangkok, but, nevertheless quite good. The Swiss white wine from Alpege complimented it quite gracefully.

Our route took us over southern Greenland. As we approached, I thought I saw low lying specks of clouds. I was wrong. They were icebergs. As we got closer, they were littering the sea - large and small. I wouldn't have wanted to take a ship through there. For the most part Greenland is flat snow with mountains pushing out. Then there were rivers of ice, with sharp striations perpendicular to the flow. From 37,000 feet they looked like wrinkles, but I am sure they were formidable. The major curiosity was what looked like high alpine lakes of open black water. In other places, these images were definitely connected to the sea, but in some cases the connection was not at all obvious. I saw nothing that could have been remotely called Green. Was this land of snow named by a sailor that was looking for his next grant.

All in all it was a very good trip. I learned a lot at the workshop, and met for the first time, a number of people that I had only heard of. The major downside was that I now have the worst cold that I have had in ten years. Hopefully I shall get over it soon - or at least get over it. The weather in Denmark was, unfortunately, normal. I would have liked something abnormal - but not snow. I was amazed at the frequency of campgrounds. I don't know if they were tenting or RV, but it would be nice to come back sometime when that would be a feasible option - like in June.

10  Maps


Footnotes:

1I learned later that Roskilde was considered such a depressing place to live, and that so many students commute from a nearby town, that there is talk of opening another campus.


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On 28 May 2004, 05:01.